I painted the sections behind the posts before installation, then did the rest of the install and painted the rest. Once building was in place, interior sheeting was applied. Studs were actually built in sections and set in place behind the perlins before the exterior insulation and side walls were installed. So another idea for you that I thought was unique. Very cool look and it gave them a lot of flexibility for shelving and racks. I was in a retail store a few weeks back and they had the perimeter sided with baltic birch, but they drilled holes similar to an MFT top every 1' on a grid around the perimeter. But 24" OC with 1/2" drywall doesn't give you much flexibility on where you hang things. They give you plenty of evidence where the studs are. Should also help with sound attenuation if you are in a residential neighborhood with potential concern on noise.Īs for finding studs, if you put the plywood up with a nail gun as I did, you won't have any problem finding a stud later on. I'd definitely insulate before siding as it will help with climate control and does not cost that much. In my home shop, it's all drywall with studs on 16" center and it's served me well for 20 years. But with 24" on center studs, you may find you want more surface area for hanging things. Or go to a french cleat system for hanging things around the shop. Or you could choose to go with ply on one wall. In your case where it's a woodworking shop, you could go with drywall everywhere. I did choose to do the wiring and piping for air around the shop on the SURFACE of the finished walls to make it easy to either add new drops / outlets or easily repair. But I'm glad I went with 1) a darker color on the wainscoting and 2) plywood for durability and flexibility on where I hang things. Now this is on a farm shop, so I was more concerned with durability where I would not be everyday with tenants in the building for storage and maintenance tasks. Sheeting was placed up to 7' high around the perimeter. I built a 75x50 farm shop a couple of years ago and lined the interior with 16" on-center studs followed by 3/4" sanded plywood that I painted. It may look fine even with the lower grad ply after she paints it. Maybe I just answered my own question here and I'll stick to drywall, with my own french cleat system I'll install later attaching to the studs.īut curious if there are any other good alternatives to drywall, which aren't terrifically more expensive? And now that I'm thinking this through, I wonder if a studfinder would even work through plywood? That said, I still think I'll be hunting for studs to mount the heavy stuff. I'm not a huge fan of cheap plywood as I've had to many unhappy projects built with it, but I do like the idea of being able to drive a screw and mount a tool anywhere in the shop. Watching April Wilkerson's new shop build-out on YouTube and I noticed she used a pretty low grade plywood for the interior walls rather than drywall. That's with me (and a friend or two, I hope) doing all the heavy lifting. I've got a quote of about $1,500 delivered for the 75 pieces of 12x4 foot drywall (1/2" for the walls and 5/8" lightweight for the ceilings, attaching to joists 24" OC) and mud/tape. Right now it is insulated just on the side walls, with otherwise open studs. I'm looking to finish my 1,100 square foot detached workshop.
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